Even the most advanced technician will occasionally come across a tricky situation.
Below, we have compiled a list of frequently asked questions and troubleshooting to help keep you on track and handle roadblocks like a pro.
Problem: My colour gel is rippling, bubbling, pitting or not curing.
Reason: The gel has not been properly stirred - If there is too much pigment and not enough curing agent, you will notice bubbling/rippling of your colour.
Solution: Ensure you stir your gels well to avoid this.
Reason: The application is too thick - Colour Gel is designed to be applied in thin layers. If it is too thick, the gel will not cure through and bubble/ripple.
Solution: Remember, your first layer is to cover the nail and cap the free edge, and your second layer is to build colour density and smooth out your finish. So don't stress and add more gel if your first layer is a little transparent or streaky - your second layer will correct this.
Reason: If colour is applied to a wet or oily surface, you will experience pitting.
Solution: Make sure you wipe over your nail plate and/or base layer with Nail Cleanse to ensure a clean prepared surface for your gel.
Reason: If the clients hand is not properly placed in the curing unit, a curing unit is being used that is not compatible with Bio Gel, or your Bio Sculpture curing unit has diode issues (not switching on, interupted curing time, older unit with weakened diodes) the gel won't cure.
Solution: Ensure your clients hand is properly inside the curing unit using the silicon mat as a guide. Cure thumbs seperately. Bio Sculpture gels are only tested with our own lamps, so if you are using another branded lamp, you may want to consider moving across to our lamp to ensure a proper cure. Always ensure the diodes are switching on and the hand stays in for the full curing time. If you are experiencing diode issues - please reach out to us asap.
Problem: My client is experiencing lifting.
There are many reasons a client may have gels lift or chip. It is important to first identify where they were lifting from, as this will give us an indication as to the cause:
Lifting Problem 1: Overlay "popping" off from the nail plate
Reason: This can be as a result of improper nail plate preparation, an oily nail plate (either naturally or due to product), poor application.
Solution: Ensure prep is completed correctly and thoroughly, and ensure the correct gels are selected for the clients nail needs and the gel is structured properly.
Lifting Problem 2: Colour lifting from the base layer
Reason: This can be as a result of colour not being stirred properly, if the cured base layer has not been wiped and buffed or if any oils or creams made their way onto the base layer after curing (eg: wrong solution used to wipe base, or client scratching oily scalp or skin during application.)
Solution: Always stir your colour gels thoroughly before application. Always wipe and buff your base before colour application. Try to encourage clients to take this time to relax and keep their hands away from their hair, face, handbag, phone etc.
Lifting Problem 3: Lifting from the free edge
Reason: Usually indicates the gel has not been capped properly or the gel has pulled back.
Solution: Pay extra attention to capping the free edge (including the sides of the free edge) and do just one nail at a time when applying your base layer.
Lifting Problem 4: Lifting from the side walls
Reason: Usually indicates poor preparation with oil, product or filings left in the side walls. It can also be as a result of flooded gel or gel that is thick, bumpy or uneven.
Solution: Ensure the nail plate is cleaned thoroughly during prep, and that gel application is smooth, even, and tapered to the side walls.
Lifting Problem 5: Lifting from the cuticles
Reason: Usually indicates the gel was too bulky at the cuticle, the gel was flooded at the cuticle or poor preparation.
Solution: Always keep your gel tapered down towards the cuticle and the free edge and be careful not to flood the gel. Always ensure neat and thorough preparation.
Problem: I'm having trouble getting a perfect coverage of colour gel.
Reason: Our gels are designed to be applied in two thin layers. The first layer is intended to gain coverage on the nail and capping the colour at the free edge.
Solution: Don't stress if the coverage is a little sheer or streaky at this layer - colour density is built up with the second layer. It's always better to do 3 thin layers than 2 thick layers if additional density/coverage is required.